Eternal Flame Free – Jacopo Larcher e Babsi Zangerl

After six days of study and attempts, on Saturday, July 23, 2022, the Zangerl-Larcher duo succeeded in free climbing Eternal Flame (VI 7c+ [5.13a], 650m), on the south face of Trango Tower (6240m) in the Trango Group of Pakistan’s Karakorum. The route is considered one of the most difficult free climbs above 6000m, a big-wall that has challenged the world’s most experienced climbers. From July 18-23, the couple managed to free climb each of the 24 pitches without falling. Every pitch is considered onsight flash except the first two, but both climbers closed them onsight on the previous expedition, during the summer of 2021.

During the ascent, Babsi and Jacopo did “swing-lead”, meaning they each led alternating pitches; in addition, they both led the four crucial pitches (7c-7c+). They worked on the wall for 6 days, freeing each pitch consecutively and in the right order. There was no shortage of difficulties; in fact, between the second and fourth day they made little progress due to the intense heat that melted the snow, making the route damp and impractical. Patience rewarded the climbers because by the fifth dawn conditions were excellent, allowing them to push as hard as they could leaving only three easy pitches to climb on the last day before reaching the summit.

“Eternal Flame – A Dream came true!”, Babsi and Jacopo commented. “An incredible line through the stunning 6240m high Trango Tower. A sequence of 5 star pitches which we’ve rarely seen before, with the crux pitch being above 6000m. What a journey! We are both exhausted and baked by the sun, but we’re super happy to have climbed this iconic line, without any falls. Now it’s time to recover in Basecamp and enjoy our last days in this beautiful country”.

We look forward to hearing about Babsi Zanger and Jacopo Larcher’s next venture!