Interview with Nicolas Favresse, on the walls of Cerro Torre

How are you? Did you enjoy this quarantine? Did you get something planned already?

I am doing great … The quarantine felt somewhat a bit like being on an expedition. It gave to me (and I hope for most of us) an opportunity to take a break from my routine and to take a look at life with new perspectives. For me, it contributed to appreciating certain things a bit like when I get back from an expedition. I usually appreciate having fresh water running from a tap or just sitting on a chair while here it was the freedom of movement and socializing. I personally think it’s a great opportunity to grow as a better person. At the moment I have nothing planned yet because I want to see how everything evolves first so I just let my mind open so that when the time comes I’ll be ready to go for another adventure.  

If we asked you 4 words/adjectives to describe yourself, which ones would you use?

Optimistic, messy, curious, driven 

The last expedition you did was to open a road on Cerro Standhardt in Patagonia, how did it go? How do you feel now? Tell us a little bit about this experience

Actually, we came to Patagonia with no objectives at all. We just thought of going there a bit like going a retreat to a place we both like and with friends we like too. There, it is a simplified version of our lives with no other worries than taking good care of our bodies and train to be fit to go in the mountain in the event of a good weather window. Actually, the route we opened on Cerro Standhardt was quite unexpected and the result of a last-minute change of plan due to poor conditions on the original line we had planned to attempt. We simply looked around and saw a nice pillar that seemed to have features and looked in good rock climbing conditions. It turned out to be a great vertical journey with 2 nights sleeping in ultralight inflatable portaledges, one of which we celebrated Sean’s 39th birthday! The climbing on the first part of the wall turned out harder than what we thought making a very sustained rock climb until we connected with ice climbed called Exocet which we followed until the summit. It was a special moment for me because it was the first time I had ever stepped on the summit snow mushroom of any of the towers from the Cerro Torre range. It’s a totally unique experience! 

Between a climb, an attempt, and much more, what do you and your companions do while you wait to try a climb? We know you’re a good guitarist, do you always carry your guitar with you?

In El Chalten, between the adventures in the mountains, you can wait for the next weather window with the comfort of a town but also the comfort of great training facilities with a nice boulder gym and amazing boulders just outside town.  

I always bring a guitar with me wherever I go and also on this trip I played a lot. I go through phases where I play more than other times but usually when I am on an expedition or on a climbing trip that’s when I find the best inspiration to play especially if I meet some other musicians to play with.  

Three things in your expeditionary backpack without you can’t climb a wall?

Motivation, humbleness, and determination

You are a climber who adopts the “By fair means” method, what are the reasons for this choice? Future plans in this direction?

For me going “by fair means” on an expedition just makes the adventure greater. When you reach your climbing objectives you really feel that you’ve earned it and it develops a totally different mindset. Somehow it brings you closer connected to the mountains and I love that. The only challenge with the by fair means approach is that it is usually slow and because it takes time you might lose your climbing fitness by the time you reach the wall. So when you go for a “by fair means” it’s really important if you can discipline yourself to train while approaching so that you don’t lose all your climbing shape. In the future, I would like to take way fewer planes and do all my expedition “by fair means” which means maybe do fewer expeditions but they would be much longer and with way more adventures besides the climbing ones.  

You have a job that allows you to travel all over the world and see fantastic places, although we know that sometimes it can be difficult, complicated and much more. One thing that you like most about your life? And one thing/effect/activity/situation or more that you hate the most? 

What I really enjoy about my life is that I am completely free to do what I want with my time and I can find the means necessary to fulfill my dreams. My partners trust me and so there is absolutely no pressure from their side so that’s really cool too!

What I don’t like so much about my life is that it leads me to talk about myself and the things I have done and been self-focused.

During your travels, have you been able to see the effects of climate change over the years? Can you perceive them? Is there a specific place in your mind about it?

Yes for sure! For example, I just returned from Patagonia and since the first time I was there 15 years ago, some glaciers have receded more than 100 meters. And this is a great acceleration of the melting pace compared to the years before. In Baffin Island, the permafrost is melting creating lots of rockfalls and slides. You can notice much more the effect of global warming when you are close to the poles.

How do you choose your sponsors? What are your reasons for sponsoring Scarpa and Patagonia? Do you recognize yourself in these two brands and why? 

I chose them because I think they fit well with my way of approaching my passion. Also, of course, it’s important that they are making top products too.

These days I really value brands like Scarpa and Patagonia in the outdoor industry because they are still family-owned. I think it really helps for making the right decisions for the sport and the community and not just about making the max profit.  

A message for the next generation of alpinists/climbers?

Keep your mind open, you are free to reinvent the sport!