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Giro del Monviso, two days around the King

Photo Denis Piccolo
Testo Giulia Boccola
Hikers Giulia Boccola, Fabio Cerato, Federico Mura
Location Monviso – Italy – France
Brands Arc’Teryx, Salewa, Fjällräven, Ferrino, Smith, Masters, Alpina, Scarpa

King Vesulo together with his wife Besimauda, following a furious argument, were turned into stone by the hands of the Gods who were annoyed and irritated by their noise, and out of pity for the King decided to place them above the mountains, destined to look at each other from afar for eternity, forever regretting their argument. And so the King of Stone also known as Viso, would be able to observe his Besimauda or Bisalta in the beautiful Ligurian Alps from the Cozie Alps. And with this sweet and melancholy feeling, our hike around the Viso started.

A great hiking classic, which takes us back in time, because it was first undertaken in 1839 by James David Forbes, professor of natural philosophy at the University of Edinburgh, who along with his desire for exploration, also introduced the concept of hiking. The tour of the Viso is in fact divided into stages that can be completed in several days or in a single day for the most trained. My two friends from Piedmont, Federico and Fabio, and I opted for two intense days. Our adventure began in Pian del Re, a well-known location because is where the river Po begins and from here, equipped with all the necessary gears, and a fair amount of nuts and hazelnuts, we left for our destination, the Vallanta refuge, placed right under the west face of Monviso.
This imposing mountain is characterized by a pyramidal shape, and like its surroundings, is made of fragments of an ancient compressed ocean floor emerged following the collision of the two continental plates, the Asian and the African, which led to the formation of the Alps. A right dose of adrenaline along with the fact of not knowing what would have awaited me, made me grow inside an healthy desire to explore, to see and learn about new places, to push myself further, filling my eyes with wonderful natural scenery and my soul with a renewed and vigorous energy.

Everything that surrounds us lives on energy, but only if we are able to perceive it, can we channel it in the best way and become part of it. This ring of several stages represents a unique experience in the Western Alps, constituting, with its discontinuous environments, one of the most spectacular high-altitude hikes in Europe. A trail that crosses two countries, Italy and France, two national parks, soft valleys with rich vegetation that alternate to harsh and severe landscapes.
Under the burning sun of a splendid mid-September day, we first reached the Buco di Viso, the oldest Alpine tunnel, built in less than two years between 1479 and 1480 and commissioned by the Marquis of Saluzzo, Ludovico II in agreement with the King of France Louis XI, Renato d’Angiò. This tunnel, about 75 meters long, two meters high and two and fifty meters wide, was intended to facilitate the sale of salt from Provence also known as “Bera” in the language of the Po Valley smugglers, reducing the journey to Turin by three weeks compared to Via del Monginevro.
Today the transit of the tunnel is left alone to hikers who, like us, are intrigued in finding  themselves in the French territory or in the Italian one. Leaving the Buco di Viso, we reached the border passing from the Colle delle Traversette, an alpine pass almost 3000 meters high that joins the Po Valley with the Guil Valley in France and from where, according to some English scholars, the Carthaginian Hannibal passed with the his army and his 37 elephants.

Intoxicating colors and scents have allowed us to enrich ourselves with a profound joy and gratitude towards a nature so lush and rich in history.

There are not many meters of altitude that separate us from the border, and once we reach Colle, we are amazed by the beauty of the landscape that appears in front us, a wide valley below our feet and a steep rocky ridge that leads to the snow-capped peaks of the Western Aylefroide and the Barre des Ecrins, located respectively at 3953 and 4102 meters high, behind us, a glimpse of the snowy Monviso.
After a brief stop at the top and a chat with a French hiker, we resumed our journey crossing the Guil valley, meeting different ibexes along the path. They risked extinction at the end of the ‘700, and survived only in the Gran Paradiso Park, from there they were reintroduced into the Alps. Today there are more than 35,000 specimens, 165 of them are in the Monviso Park. Four hours had already passed and four more to go to reach our goal. Our desire to  arrive has been replaced with the pleasure of savoring the surroundings. After an hour and a half of descent along this green valley, we reached the Refuge du Viso, located at 2460 high meters in the Hautes-Alpes department.
In front of us we have the northwest face of Monviso in all its splendor, 3840 meters of pure rock. After filling our water bottles, we resumed our journey along the trail, towards Passo Vallanta. In front of us a stony ground of about 400 meters waited to be climbed and while we proceeded zig zagging, behind us the shadows were getting darker and longer and the sun was greeting the valley disappearing behind imposing rocky walls. And with the colors of the sunset and some tiredness in our legs, we couldn’t ask for a better scenario.
We were back in Italy, in Val Varaita and below us in the distance we could see the Vallanta refuge. After a rich dinner, a pleasant evening and a salute to the starry sky, we retired to our room ready to face the following day that would have welcomed us with a dawn of pale pink hues. We had traveled about 20 km and to complete the tour of the Viso there were still 22 km to go.
A small session of muscular awakening outside the shelter and we were ready to leave again towards the Quintino Sella refuge. We were going downhill along this beautiful valley rich in vegetation and streams, when the trail began to go up again through a thick and fresh wood giving us some shelter from the sun for a moment. At the end of it, we found ourselves in a different environment once again, characterized by an infinite expanse of stones, most likely collapsed from the walls above, after a slight slope the trail had become increasingly steep and uncomfortable, making us slow down our pace. The heart was beating fast and the breath was short, but it wasn’t over yet. Waiting for us at the top of the trail, another steep scree that would have finally allowed us to reach the valley of the menhirs. After about three hours of climbing under the sun, we were rewarded with a landscape completely different from the one we had become so accustomed to.

A series of alpine lakes would have accompanied us with incredible and spectacular rock compositions, making that moment even more surreal and magical. We were near the San Chiaffredo Pass. Here the trail had become a very soft up and down and ran halfway up the hill, allowing us to have a wide view of the entire valley below. A few more turns and here we are at the Gallarino Pass, from which, thanks to the clear sky and the absence of clouds, we were able to observe by eye the Matterhorn, the Gran Paradiso, the Grivola and finally the Lyskamm.
We started getting hungry as we could see Quintino Sella in the distance. A trail studded with stones made the hike a little more technical and slow, but finally we had arrived at the shelter together with some boys who had just finished the Normal route, a 1200 meter wall. The Quintino Sella is nestled right at the foot of the Monviso together with the large Viso lake, spectacular for its nuances of an intense blue turning into green with some copper shades. Once again the landscape became different, wide green valleys full of alpine lakes opened up in front of us. One in particular struck us for its cerulean turquoise color which changes according to the light and the time.
I’m talking about the Chiaretto lake, unique because of the intense glacial activity of the area. Intoxicating colors and scents have allowed us to enrich ourselves with a profound joy and gratitude towards a nature so lush and rich in history. A 42 km hike, 2400 meters in altitude and two days of pure and natural harmony with the surrounding environment. Now when I will see you from my home, on clear days, 260 km away, I will look at you with different eyes my dear Vesulo.

HIKING SELECTION

Arc’teryx  Aerios FL Mid GTX
Footwear suitable for long excursions on technical trails in any weather condition. Agile and light, it has a waterproof Gore-Tex protection that offers both protection and breathability, allowing moisture to escape and helping to regulate the internal temperature for optimal comfort. The Vibram Megagrip sole and the compressed Eva midsole with TPU tip ensure agility, stability and safety. The midcut design provides maximum ankle support without adding unnecessary weight, giving excellent performance and a comfortable feeling at every step.

Salewa Alpenviolet GTX
This shoe designed specifically for female ergonomics offers maximum comfort especially in the critical area of the forefoot and the heel thanks to the most generous drop. The Pomoca Alpen sole with high-tech Pomoca Butilic compound complies with the natural movement of the roll while the gaiter avoids intrusions of stones and other debris. Comfortable even after many hours of hiking thanks to the lightweight construction. The Gore-Tex Extended Comfort lining provides protection from water and excellent perspiration of moisture and excess heat, while the Ortholite insole keeps feet cool and dry.

Scarpa ZG Trek GTX
A light and versatile model suitable for quick excursions on alpine trails even with a full loaded backpack. The upper is in water-repellent suede with elastic fabric collar, the two-part Speed Lacing system allows different tension and fit volumes to be adjusted in a single movement and, at the same time, to lock the lace that divides the areas tension of the lacing for a homogeneous and progressive wrapping of the foot and ankle. It features a Gore-Tex Performance Comfort lining, a Salix Trek sole developed in collaboration with Vibram and a Vibram XS Trek rubber tread, which make the shoe durable, comfortable and adaptable to various types of terrain.

Alpina Kosmic
A classic design and mirrored and break-proof lenses combined with a colour-coordinated frame that offer complete protection from UVA, UVB and UVC rays. These glasses are suitable for every sport activity from cycling to running, up to speed hiking and skiing, they also guarantee a view without distortions thanks to decentralized lenses.

Arc’teryx  Zeta LT
Waterproof and breathable, this jacket with Gore C-Knit technology offers at the same time a pleasant sensation on the skin and excellent performance for various winter activities.
Comfortable and compressible, it is enriched by a durable design that guarantees complete protection in any external condition.

Arc’teryx Creston AR
This hiking pant ensures maximum versatility and complete protection on the coldest days. The fabric is slightly brushed inside for greater comfort, while at the same time ensuring durability and resistance. Low-profile elasticated belt, large pockets and articulated knees for maximum freedom of movement.

Ferrino Acadia Man
Perfect for winter in the mountains, this 3-layer fabric shell is light and durable. The zippered side pockets with double slider and the mesh lining allow good internal ventilation. Waterproof, windproof and breathable.

Ferrino Triolet
4-season backpack with extendable 32+5 structure that makes it versatile depending on your needs. It features ski belts, ice axes, rope, shovel and probe and a removable waist belt, the mesh fabric with shaped padding is breathable and ergonomic while the back helps to distribute the load optimally.

Fjällräven Abisko Lite Trekking
Light and fresh, these pants are made of stretch fabric and G-1000 Lite and therefore suitable for warm conditions. They feature a technical cut with pre-shaped knees, comfortable pockets and large ventilation zips that allow excess heat to escape.

Fjällräven Keb
A jacket with excellent fit, made of G-1000 Eco, a durable and elasticized fabric that gives ample freedom of movement. It has an adjustable rain hood and chest pockets with zipper closure making it suitable for a 4 seasons use on any type of terrain.

Masters Dolomiti
Three sections poles in AluTech 7075 that ensures lightness and strength, suitable for the average expert hiker. The new closing system facilitates a comfortable and fast adjustment of the closed pole measuring only 66cm for a weight of 496gr.

Salewa Antelao Shell
This jacket guarantees a high level of protection thanks to the three-layer Powertex Extreme outer fabric and welded seams with water-repellent DWR treatment. Waterproof and breathable, the construction with bellows also allows to extend the arms completely without raising the lower edge of the jacket.

Salewa MTN Trainer 22WS
Designed specifically for female ergonomics, this 22L hiking and via ferrata backpack features a Dry Back – Contact Flow Fit back for a cooler and drier back and a TCS – Twin Compression System that reduces unused volume by stabilizing the load.

Salewa Puez Orval 2
Windproof and water repellent pants that offer effective protection in the mountains. They are made of Durastretch, a light and abrasion resistant material with DWR treatment finishes. The ergonomic waist, the gusset to the crotch and the pre-shaped knees guarantee freedom of movement.

Smith Optics Lowdown 2
Glasses with a classic look but with a new design on the surface and a flatter front 4 base facefront. They feature non-slip Megol nose pads and ChromaPop lenses to optimize all the details. Available in numerous colors.

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