By: Lisa Misconel
Photos:
Mathis Dumas
Wild and untamed: La Directissime
A wall, a journey, a line to be rediscovered: last February, the team of French mountaineers consisting of Charles Dubouloz, Symon Welfringer and Clovis Paulin conquered the Directissime on the North Face of the Grandes Jorasses. We tried to savor a few moments of it through the words of Symon Welfringer.
February 13, 2023, 1:30 p.m. There are 3 of them. Everything, even the numbers, seems to be aligned that day. Finally, almost 40 years later, someone has managed to tame the Direct, a 1,200m route among the most difficult on the Jorasses (ABO-), in the heart of the Mont Blanc massif: these are French mountaineers Charles Dubouloz, Clovis Paulin e Symon Welfringer all three members of the Fédération Française des Clubs Alpins et de Montagne. The route was opened in June 1986 by Patrick Gabarrou and Hervé Bouvard, and after five days and four hard nights on the wall braving temperatures as low as -24°C the team managed to complete the first ever winter free ascent and writing a piece of history. A journey of silences, wilderness, true climbing along a line dreamed and imagined but as difficult as ever to recognize and climb.
We had the pleasure and opportunity to learn more about this important achievement with an interview with
Symon Welfringer
, an athlete and mountain guide from
Millet
.
How did it go from idea to concrete project and when?
This winter, together with Charles, we came up with the idea of doing a multi-day climb in the Jorasses. We had two central points in mind: combining wilderness and difficult climbing. In the end, our choice fell on this pure line that had never been repeated, and Clovis, a good friend of both of us, had a dream of repeating it, so we proposed him to join us. Being 3 in this kind of project is really the best in my opinion.
Were you involved during the entire preparation phase?
At first I knew little about this line and had never heard of it before Charles and Clovis mentioned it. In any case, before choosing a route, we took the whole month of February with Charles to enjoy the good weather and then take advantage of the first window of good weather to do a long route. We decided this when we were in Manaslu last fall, thinking about upcoming projects….
How did you prepare for this climb?
I do not prepare specifically for a climb. This year I will try to plan my training better for both climbing and mountaineering. I find it really hard to find time for everything: training, climbing, mountaineering…But at the same time it’s the key to improve, to give more time to preparation to be able to succeed in things even on the first shot!
What was the most difficult part of the whole project?
The most difficult part was to find a good line along the entire wall. Since it had never been repeated, it was not even equipped and there was no way to check if we were on the right route, the reports were really basic and not well described, it was a repetition but with the flavor of opening a route. It was the first time I experienced such a feeling on a route in the Alps.
What is the best feeling you experienced in those days?
I would say the best moment was at the end of the difficult part: a 200 m overhanging wall in the middle of the wall, the cracks are thin and discontinuous, at that point we didn’t know where the route was going, I was in the lead and I managed to climb some incredible pitches up to 7A trad with -15 degrees below zero. At one point I was desperate–I couldn’t get going and find the right spots where I could attach the rope; finally after a few attempts by moving left and right I was able to find a few feasible pitches and attach the rope on easier climbing terrain. This happened on the 3rd day. Needless to say, arriving at the summit after 5 days at -20 degrees with the sun waiting for us and 30 degrees more was a real relief. Sharing such moments with two good friends was pure joy.
Had you climbed with Charles and Clovis before?
Of course, I had already climbed often with Charles, my first time in the Jorasses was actually with him in 2020, when we made the first free ascent of Manitua (7C). We also participated in two expeditions together in Nepal. With Clovis, on the other hand, we have known each other for many years and have climbed the Eiger North Face together. We go to crags together very often, in a nutshell I was with two friends up there.
What about the nights? How did you spend them?
Actually, it was not so bad, in fact. At first we were quite anxious because we had little information, but as the days went by we managed to find snowbanks large enough to lie on. So in the end it was quite comfortable, we just suffered from the cold of course, but that’s quite normal.
Why did you choose to make this climb in winter?
I would say there are two reasons: one is the challenge, in winter the days are shorter, the temperatures lower, and the commitment has to be greater, so the challenge takes on a whole other dimension. The other reason is risk: nowadays it has become really difficult to climb these walls in summer, the rock is not stable at all and the ice lines are melting, the risk of landslides and rockfall is too high.
How were Patrick Gabarrou and Hervé Bouvard involved in the project?
Patrick joined us on the approach to the base of the wall, we checked the line together, it was a nice moment. We also met him and Hervé when we returned to Chamonix, and felt gratified to be able to share our ascent with them almost 40 years after opening.
Is there a particular moment that will stick in your mind?
This climb made me realize how much I love mountaineering and particularly this kind: wild, long and difficult. Spending five days isolated from the real world with two good friends is a unique thrill and makes me want to do more…
