Simon Messner and Martin Sieberer on the untouched summit of Yernamandu Kangri
Salewa athlete Simon Messner and Martin Sieberer reached the still untouched summit of the Yernamandu Kangri (7,180 m)
At 7,180 meters, Yernamandu Kangri is one of the highest and most unexplored mountains in the world, located in South Karakorum, Pakistan. On July 15, 2023, the athlete Salewa Simon Messner and Martin Sieberer completed the first ascent in pure alpine style, without the use of fixed ropes, intermediate camps, external assistance or oxygen tanks, marking an important milestone in mountaineering.
During this season, abundant fresh snow fell in the Karakoram, making conditions for the hike complex. With an elevation gain of 3,000 meters (from base camp to the summit), the two climbers had to open the route. Uncertain weather conditions limited time for acclimatization before the ascent, prompting an accelerated ascent. They left the rope behind to reduce weight, facing crevasses with a thin 10-meter lanyard. Most of the time they climbed without being tied down.
“We left base camp early in the morning of July 13. That day we climbed from 4,300 m at base camp up to 5,400 m. The next day we reached a glacial basin at 6,250 m, where we bivouacked again on the edge of a wide cross crevasse. Those who choose alpine style at this altitude should climb a maximum of 500 meters per day to avoid dangerous altitude sickness,” specifies Simon Messner.
Martin Sieberer adds, “We, however, walked about 1,000 meters a day. What made the ascent in this style possible was precisely our speed-and the fact that, over the years, Simon and I have become a close-knit rope team. The short weather window we had forced us to aim for the summit directly the next day. With very light backpacks, we set off at 4:15 a.m. and after about 7 hours managed to reach the summit of Yernamandu Kangri for the first time.”
According to local residents, this was the first successful climb of the season in the entire Karakoram, as many other expeditions failed to reach their intended goal. Instead, Messner and Sieberer managed to reach the summit of Yernamandu Kangri (7,180 m) as first, exactly three weeks after their departure.
The challenge of this climb lies in the intricate terrain and the considerable distance to be covered. The last section of the mountain, the west face, located at 6,500 m and about 600 m high, has a slope of about 70°, sometimes frozen. In addition, the inherent risks of climbing, including avalanches, crevasses, and imposing seracs, must be considered. In 1981, a few teams unsuccessfully attempted to climb this mountain. Since then, few expeditions have explored this remote corner of the Karakoram. On the Masherbrum Glacier, Messner and Sieberer did not cross paths with anyone but a snow leopard.
“For Martin and me, a lifelong mountaineering dream came true: to climb up to 7,000 meters above sea level, in pure alpine style, on an as yet untouched mountain. We couldn’t have wished for more!” says Messner.
In recent years, Simon Messner and Martin Sieberer have managed to complete together routes of extraordinary beauty, first ascents and first ascents in the Karakoram and the Alps. The proven rope team shared the ascent but without the need for a route leader. As Messner tells it, “Everyone brought his own equipment, which means that everyone was also responsible for himself. We will remain true to this style in the future.”
