By Silvia Galliani
Photos Benjamin Pfitscher
Fragsburg: the forgotten crag
It is now well known that South Tyrol is a real promised land for all climbing enthusiasts. In fact there are numerous rock gyms scattered in the South Tyrolean land that can offer, to real experts or less ones, days made of sweat and fun on the blocks.
One of these, inexplicably between the least known, is Fragsburg.
Roland Mittersteiner was the one who began, several years ago, to open some routes of this cliff but which later fell into oblivion. Later on, Helmut Haller and Andreas Sanin rehabilitated some parts of the crag by opening new routes some years ago.
Thanks to its panoramic position, which allows you to admire the Adige Valley at 360 degrees, it can be considered one of the most beautiful walls in the entire South Tyrol. It has two sectors, one with more overhanging routes and the other characterized instead by pitches completely on a slab. The degree of difficulty varies from 5a to 8a, although most of the routes are between 6a and 6b.
Frasburg is one of the oldest crags in the area, especially in the Klassik sector, characterized by single moves on excellent porphyry cramps and several fun routes. Another interesting area is the Platten, which offers a splendid panoramic view of Merano.
Climbing in this place requires a good technique and a certain sensitivity.
The fact that the crag is not very popular indeed negatively affects the cleaning of some routes and it is a real pity that the crag has been forgotten. Depending on the weather conditions, the routes that are made up of a maximum of two pitches can even be climbed on winter afternoons. Instead, we headed to Frasburg on a sunny Sunday afternoon in early summer. From Merano, towards Scena, you have to take the road to Fragsburg towards the Rametz Castle. Nearby stands the homonym hotel where you can find parking. When leaving the Hotel Fragsburg you must take a path that goes up to the left. The Fragsburg crag opens up before our eyes. From here, you have to climb up a scree to the right and then the first blocks will appear in front of you. The starting point can be reached by iron stairs.
Perhaps we wish it will remain this way for a while so we could be the only ones to enjoy, once again, its splendid scenic routes.
From Merano, towards Scena, you have to take the road to Fragsburg towards the Rametz Castle. Nearby stands the homonym hotel where you can find parking. When leaving the Hotel Fragsburg you must take a path that goes up to the left.
The Fragsburg crag opens up before our eyes. From here, you have to climb up a scree to the right and then the first blocks will appear in front of you. The starting point can be reached by iron stairs. Our climbers Giulia Alton and Andrea Prünster are real sportswomen, with different competitions and international results behind them. But at that moment, on those porphyry holds, they were only Giulia and Andrea, with their brightly colored dresses to contrast the red rock of Fragsburg. Unfortunately the magic didn’t last long, after training on a 6c the most classic of summer thunderstorms surprised us and we had to go back running to our car left in the parking lot of the homonym hotel. The Fragsburg cliff near Merano is still quite unknown. Perhaps we wish it will remain this way for a while so we could be the only ones to enjoy, once again, its splendid scenic routes.
CLIMBING SELECTION
Black Diamond
Forged Denim Pants W
Redefining climbing denim, BD’s new Forged Denim uses an innovative combination of the best materials in the category with specific features to create the best climbing denim in the world. An extremely resistant but incredibly light and elastic denim with an elegant but highly functional cut.
La Sportiva
Patcha Leggings
Enveloping and extremely feminine leggings perfect for maximum freedom of movement thanks to the stretch fabric and integrated elastic waistband. They have an ideal weight and fit for indoor or outdoor climbing sessions and offer ideal coverage and protection with a highly abrasion resistant fabric.
Salewa
Apex Climb 25
Climbing backpack developed to offer ample freedom of movement and a stable and well-fitting back load. The exclusive split design of the shoulder straps adapts ergonomically to the shape of the chest and shoulder, leaving articular freedom even in the most demanding high holds. The TCS – Twin Compression System allows you to reduce unused volume by lifting and stabilizing the load.
Salewa
Wildfire Gtx
The most up-to-date version of the shoe that invented the tech approach category, with an innovative balance between walkability and climbing skills. The new Pomoca Speed MTN sole in butyl compound ensures excellent grip even on damp or wet rocks. With waterproof and breathable Gore-Tex lining.
Mammut
Alnasca Women
This ultralight sport climbing harness features the latest technologies and a progressive design. It uses a combination of split webbing design and Mammut Frame technology (a lamination process that applies TPU reinforcement to the mesh material to increase lateral stability of the harness). This allows an even distribution of pressure on the harness and unprecedented comfort.
Mammut
Smart 2.0
Intuitive insurer with reliable climbing rope block. Built upon experience, the new Smart 2.0 offers significantly improved braking efficiency, optimized geometry and intuitive use. The new braking system blocks the rope in the event of a fall. The insurance action is the same as the previous model and is therefore adapted to the reflex movements of the insurer.
E9
Drops
Urban concept t-shirt made of breathable and comfortable stretch cotton and perforated cotton on the sleeves. Light and breathable, it is very soft to the touch and pleasant to wear, it is ideal for hot days spent on the cliff but also during leisure time. Slim fit, it features an E9 logo on the chest and an oversize logo on the back.
Prana
Kanab Pant
These climbing pants are made of a sturdy and abrasion resistant organic cotton blend fabric as well as being soft to the touch, with a clean design and can also be worn during travel and in everyday life. They feature various pockets and a double layer fabric on the knees for added comfort and protection.
Prana
Graphic Tank
Tank in organic cotton, very light with a dark print on the front in contrast with the light color of the t-shirt, it is ideal for a day of climbing or for any outdoor activity. With a soft fit, it can also be worn in everyday life.
La Sportiva
Xcape Tank
This fun and captivating top of La Sportiva is a great option for a climbing session and to stay comfortable and cool at the cliff. Made of cotton, it is the funky flavor tank top dedicated to all climbers.
Salewa
Agner Durastretch Tights
Long technical climbing tights made of Durastretch, a special thin and light softshell, resistant to wind and abrasion on the rock, 4-way stretch to not hinder movement, quick dry and with water repellent DWR finish. Designed to offer comfort and versatility even during summer hiking days. It has a trendy jeans cut and an unusual two-tone print. Made with bluesign approved materials.
E9
B MIX 19
Urban style climbing pants made of ripstop cotton and printed gabardine for the inside pocket. Super comfortable, it gives great freedom of movement thanks to the elastic leg bottom. Slim fit, it also features a brush holder on both sides and it stands out thanks to its bright colors and colored seams. 100% Made in Italy.
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