New Cazzanelli-Gheza route opened on Breithorn

François Cazzanelli and Leonardo Gheza open “Indian Summer,” the new mixed route on the Central Breithorn

The two athletes La Sportiva achieve a new success on the border line between Italy and Switzerland, fully respecting the mountain and the alpine environment, thanks to the use of friends and ice screws designed not to disfigure the rock and the mountain environment. “Indian Summer” was opened on a wall of the Central Breithorn that is articulated and fascinating, but also challenging and difficult to approach because of the overhangs and very pronounced verticality.

The two athletes have always shared an innate passion for mountains and walls. François Cazzanelli is an Alpine Guide and Leonardo Gheza an academic of CAI. Aware that they have reached an important milestone, they commented on their success this way, “We decided to call it Indian Summer in reference to the abnormal temperatures that are occurring at this time of year. We were fortunate, however, since in the full north, where the wall does not get sun, the weather remained excellent, and so suitable conditions presented themselves for us to venture on this line, which I had been studying for a long time.”

During the challenging climbs, François and Leonardo took turns climbing and described this experience of harmony and complicity with these beautiful words, “It was a truly magical moment, we fully enjoyed the last rays of the sun: in the north, in fact, we were cold, and at the belay we wore down jackets and thick gloves. So we appreciated even more the sunset seen from one of the peaks in the heart of Monte Rosa.”