The Petzl Legend Tour Italy in Sardinia

The history of sport climbing told in four installments in the setting from beautiful Sardinia

Episode 1 – Cala Gonone

When one arrives at Cala Gonone, one cannot help but notice a kaleidoscopic sea and the vertical walls that rise in a fascinating embrace with the water. Climbing Supramonte reveals a glimpse of blue sea and wild beauty that would make any climber fall in love. Indeed, the rocks of this land caught the attention of the first climbers who landed in Sardinia in the 1980s, such as Heinz Mariacher, Bruno Pederiva and Manolo. Cala Gonone blends a fascinating encounter between climbers from other lands and the pioneers of Sardinian mountaineering, including Giuseppe Garippa, an expert climber of the walls between Oliena and Orosei, the energetic and unconventional Enzo Lecis, and Gianluca Piras, one of the first Sardinian sport climbers. A bridge between generations and climbing cultures.
The majestic Goloritzè Spire, is the iconic experience for climbers going to Cala Gonone. Gray limestone and multi-pitch routes that embody the elegance of vertical movement. These vertical challenges are loved by climbers from every corner of the world, becoming a must-see symbol for rock climbers.

Episode 2 – Masua

Masua and Domusnovas are places where sport climbing has deep roots on the island. The thousand-year-old limestone of Masua, one of the oldest in Europe, offers a breathtaking view of the cliffs, with the iconic presence of Sugarloaf Mountain painting the horizon. Pristine beaches, romantic sunsets and endless open spaces make the Iglesiente a wild and irresistible land for adventure lovers. For climbing pioneers, Sardinian rocks were like stone castles hidden in impregnable forests. In southern Sardinia, the verticality of the land extends widely, yet Bruno Poddesu and Mondo Liggi were undeterred. Mondo Liggi, immortalized in his act of planting the first anchor on his iconic Fiat Cinquecento at St. John’s Cave, has written a historic page. Among the names that have carved island climbing history is Cecilia Marchi, a passionate and talented woman who challenged a vertical environment still dominated by men. And we cannot forget Maurizio Oviglia, a Sardinian heart for love of Cecilia and this land. Maurizio discovered most of the crags that we will now reveal. “Today,” Oviglia says, “I devote much of my time to looking for invisible lines, scrutinizing the rock and being able to glimpse designs, paths that allow me to express myself.”

Episode 3- Jerzu

Jerzu reveals itself with a unique character: almost lunar landscapes, adorned with wild and lush flora, where majestic walls seem to emerge like cathedrals in the desert. And what about the unparalleled walls of Isili? Perhaps the true paradise of overhangs. Maurizio and Cecilia tell about their experiences in these magical places.
“In one of our explorations,” says Maurizio, “we found ourselves at the foot of the rocks, where we set the first routes with the passion of those who have found the place of their dreams.” Jerzu, the subject of years of solitary bolting work by Oviglia, has become a wonder, one of the most sought-after climbing areas in the world. The rock is a masterpiece, each of its routes holds a soul and offers elegant climbing, such as the magnificent gray wall of Treasure Island. Jerzu has preserved its wild spirit through the years, offering a solitary and timeless experience that we hope remains unchanged. Equally isolated is Isili, a valley hidden among meadows, pastures and imposing dolmens dotted with sometimes perfect, sometimes barely drawn holes. The first sector to be discovered and equipped by Maurizio Oviglia and Cecilia Marchi was named“The Philosopher’s Stone” by Mattia Vacca. Isili has infected numerous climbers and nailers from Cagliari, including Simone Sarti, one of the most talented climbers on the island. Antonio Marino and Carlo Abis, Isilesi by birth, have given value to the Corvo Solitario sector, adding to Isili’s appeal.

Episode 4- Gorropu

The authentic and pristine appearance of Supramonte is an irresistible lure. Gorropu Gorge and the summit of Punta Cucuttos are true dreams realized for climbing enthusiasts. Federica Mingolla lived one of these dreams, conquering the summit via one of the most coveted and challenging multi-pitches in the world: theHotel Supramonte. Back in 1998, Rolando Larcher and Roberto Vigiani opened this extraordinary route strictly from below. It was Rolando Larcher himself who guided Federica on this adventure. She herself will narrate the emotions she felt during that day, culminating in her free ascent on May 16, 2023, after eleven hours of climbing. With its 11 pitches, Hotel Supramonte was the first route to cross this majestic virgin wall. A wall that rises imposingly overhanging the Gorropu canyon, with difficulties reaching 8b and sections often lacking protection, especially in the upper part, which Federica tackled on sight. After the seventh pitch, a niche serves as a bivouac, inspiring the name of the route: a “hotel under the stars” for climbers who choose to spend the night on the wall before reaching the summit. For Federica, the verses of Fabrizio De André’s song of the same name, inspired by Maurizio Oviglia to suggest the name for Rolando, were the driving force behind her dreams during her recovery period following a bad climbing accident. In 2012, the route was repeatedly equipped by Larcher and Oviglia, respecting the strict ethics of opening from below and maintaining the original placement of anchors used during the first opening.